It's tough for me to think that the world is anything but perfect when I am going for a run on the most beautiful fall day in recent memory around a pristine little island in the middle of a bustling beautiful cosmopolitan city, watching pairs of old women who have obviously been friends forever sit watching the Danube and chatting. Then, after one and a half times around the island - 4-5 miles, impressive for me, I'm a swimmer, NOT a runner - I stopped to do some abs, pushups, etc., where a pack of toddlers surrounded me, chattering away in Hungarian, trying to get me to play their game (to the chagrin of their very Hungarian, and thus frowny, mothers). I then proceeded to walk, fairly leisurely, back to my tram. Past the old Franciscan nunnery (where Saint Margaret lived, and Margitsziget - Margaret Island - got its name) I found a fountain playing the Sugar Plum Fairy song, complete with water show. After stopping briefly, I almost literally ran into a woman wearing a shirt that said, in English:
I want to have your love baby.
It's tough for me to think that the world is anything but perfect when translations can be that funny.
Oh, and the back of her shirt? Well, that said CIA.
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Thursday, September 20, 2007
Perfect Pitch and Gyration
On Wednesdays my classes start at 10, instead of 9. This has given Tuesday somewhat of a tradition of a night out. This Tuesday, the tradition was compounded by the birthdays of a couple kids in the math program that my roommates doing. We went to a bar somewhat near my house that had live gypsy music.
Now, let's preface this with the fact that my parents repair violins. I'm very, very used to the sound of violins, played by both terrible, and by exceptionally talented violinists. I'd say that my stringed-instrument ear is pretty good.
I have NEVER, in my entire life, heard such incredible artists.
What's gypsy music, you ask? Honestly, I can't quite describe it and a brief google search didn't come up with anything that sounded quite like what I heard. This was a string band, with fiddle, bass, accordian and a few other guys. The fiddler and the bassist where the two who I was the most impressed. They had without a doubt the quickest-moving fingers I've ever seen, and both had impeccable pitch.
Then, the dancing started. There were two main types of dancing. The first was a partner dance, with a lot of spinning. The second was something similar to step dancing (except so much faster), where the guys (I suppose girls could do this too, but I didn't see any) hit and clapped their hands, feet, and legs. The female equivalent was some sort of shockingly fast gyration of the entire body. My body just doesn't move like that. I wish it did.
Now, let's preface this with the fact that my parents repair violins. I'm very, very used to the sound of violins, played by both terrible, and by exceptionally talented violinists. I'd say that my stringed-instrument ear is pretty good.
I have NEVER, in my entire life, heard such incredible artists.
What's gypsy music, you ask? Honestly, I can't quite describe it and a brief google search didn't come up with anything that sounded quite like what I heard. This was a string band, with fiddle, bass, accordian and a few other guys. The fiddler and the bassist where the two who I was the most impressed. They had without a doubt the quickest-moving fingers I've ever seen, and both had impeccable pitch.
Then, the dancing started. There were two main types of dancing. The first was a partner dance, with a lot of spinning. The second was something similar to step dancing (except so much faster), where the guys (I suppose girls could do this too, but I didn't see any) hit and clapped their hands, feet, and legs. The female equivalent was some sort of shockingly fast gyration of the entire body. My body just doesn't move like that. I wish it did.
Saturday, September 15, 2007
thanks, dad??
Apparently, I look Hungarian.
In the two weeks that I have been here, there has not been a single day that I have not been approached by one or more Hungarians asking for directions, trying to sell me something, or attempting to engage in some other form of communication that I cannot quite pin down. This usually results in me looking baffled, then either saying (in hungarian) "I don't speak Hungarian, do you speak English?" or in English, "I'm sorry. English?". This morning, while I was standing in line to pay for my groceries, a Hungarian couple approached me and started asking me something. I, in my best attempt at terribly broken Hungarian, said, "I don't understand. Do you speak English?". They then proceeded to ask me where I had found the eggs, and then tell me that they didn't believe that I don't speak Hungarian. They even tried speaking to me in Hungarian again! Apparently, I look Hungarian (I always had thought it was just Western European mutt, but hey, who knows?) AND the two sentences that I really know how to say have a very good accent. It also, however, had the result of doubling my discomfort about not speaking the language. It is one of the few things that I have disliked about being here - I feel like an imposter and it also feels, quite frankly, RUDE to be in another country and know so little about the local language. I hate making Hungarians speak another language when it is THEIR home.
However, I guess there's not much I can do about it. Hungarian lessons start next week, so hopefully by the end of the semester I'll be able to say more than yes, no, thank you, and "I don't speak Hungarian."
In the two weeks that I have been here, there has not been a single day that I have not been approached by one or more Hungarians asking for directions, trying to sell me something, or attempting to engage in some other form of communication that I cannot quite pin down. This usually results in me looking baffled, then either saying (in hungarian) "I don't speak Hungarian, do you speak English?" or in English, "I'm sorry. English?". This morning, while I was standing in line to pay for my groceries, a Hungarian couple approached me and started asking me something. I, in my best attempt at terribly broken Hungarian, said, "I don't understand. Do you speak English?". They then proceeded to ask me where I had found the eggs, and then tell me that they didn't believe that I don't speak Hungarian. They even tried speaking to me in Hungarian again! Apparently, I look Hungarian (I always had thought it was just Western European mutt, but hey, who knows?) AND the two sentences that I really know how to say have a very good accent. It also, however, had the result of doubling my discomfort about not speaking the language. It is one of the few things that I have disliked about being here - I feel like an imposter and it also feels, quite frankly, RUDE to be in another country and know so little about the local language. I hate making Hungarians speak another language when it is THEIR home.
However, I guess there's not much I can do about it. Hungarian lessons start next week, so hopefully by the end of the semester I'll be able to say more than yes, no, thank you, and "I don't speak Hungarian."
Thursday, September 13, 2007
Seeing Slovakia
This past weekend (I guess it was almost a full week ago now - so I'm not that great at updating.), we went on an 'excursion' to the countryside. This meant that Friday, very early in the morning, we all piled in a van and headed on up to Szentendre, a city about 45 minutes outside of Budapest. First we stopped at a very large outdoor museum, which was made up of buildings from all the different regions of Hungary. First of all, for being such a small country, Hungary has a lot of regions! There were something like 9 different regions, as well as the actual ruins of a Roman villa. My favorite building was the windmill:
Then, we went into the city of Szentendre which was very touristy but very cute. After about half an hour on the main market tourist drag, I, as well as a few of my classmates, couldn't handle it anymore. We ended up following this staircase
up into the more residential area of the city. It was absolutely beautiful. It was, in many ways, exactly how I picture a European town to be: small, windy streets lined with old tiny cars and old tiny houses.
For our third tourist event of the day, we headed to the town of Esztergom, where we toured the absolutely stunning Esztergom Basilica:
From the rear of the cathedral was a view of none other than the country of Slovakia.
So, there we are. The closest I have ever been, or expected ever to be, to Slovakia. We were all a little disappointed that we didn't have our passports and thus couldn't cross the bridge and say that we have been in one other small Central/Eastern European country.
Our next town was Visegrad.
That night we slept in this log cabin and ate Hungarian barbeque. Hungarian barbeque is in fact a sort of shishkebab that consists of the following ingredients: sausage, bread, paprika, cheese and hunks of fat. Yes, hunks of fat, stuck on a stick and roasted over a campfire. I could only manage to down one, but it was a rather unforgettable experience for a girl who doesn't even like mayo much.
The next morning we walked over to a 'Summer Luge' place, where we proceeded to coast down hills at a (relatively) fast speed. I was actually slightly disappointed with the experience (it really wasn't THAT fast, and the 'tight' corners were more like slow curves), but when it costs only $1.50 for something that would in the States probably be closer to $10, it's hard to complain.
We then headed over a small mountain to an old castle. It was there that I discovered that Hungary is, in fact, an absolutely gorgeous (if often foggy) country.
After the castle, we went to a palace, where I idiotically forgot my camera outside in my bag, so I will be forced to steal the pictures of other members of my group. Oops.
And with that, we headed home on a ferry down the Danube.
Then, we went into the city of Szentendre which was very touristy but very cute. After about half an hour on the main market tourist drag, I, as well as a few of my classmates, couldn't handle it anymore. We ended up following this staircase
up into the more residential area of the city. It was absolutely beautiful. It was, in many ways, exactly how I picture a European town to be: small, windy streets lined with old tiny cars and old tiny houses.
For our third tourist event of the day, we headed to the town of Esztergom, where we toured the absolutely stunning Esztergom Basilica:
From the rear of the cathedral was a view of none other than the country of Slovakia.
So, there we are. The closest I have ever been, or expected ever to be, to Slovakia. We were all a little disappointed that we didn't have our passports and thus couldn't cross the bridge and say that we have been in one other small Central/Eastern European country.
Our next town was Visegrad.
That night we slept in this log cabin and ate Hungarian barbeque. Hungarian barbeque is in fact a sort of shishkebab that consists of the following ingredients: sausage, bread, paprika, cheese and hunks of fat. Yes, hunks of fat, stuck on a stick and roasted over a campfire. I could only manage to down one, but it was a rather unforgettable experience for a girl who doesn't even like mayo much.
The next morning we walked over to a 'Summer Luge' place, where we proceeded to coast down hills at a (relatively) fast speed. I was actually slightly disappointed with the experience (it really wasn't THAT fast, and the 'tight' corners were more like slow curves), but when it costs only $1.50 for something that would in the States probably be closer to $10, it's hard to complain.
We then headed over a small mountain to an old castle. It was there that I discovered that Hungary is, in fact, an absolutely gorgeous (if often foggy) country.
After the castle, we went to a palace, where I idiotically forgot my camera outside in my bag, so I will be forced to steal the pictures of other members of my group. Oops.
And with that, we headed home on a ferry down the Danube.
Thursday, September 6, 2007
After a few days in Budapest, I think I'm starting - STARTING - to get a sense of the city, as I also gain a very, very basic sense of the language. By basic I mean I can say "hello", "please", "thank you", "wifi?", and a series of other useful, but hardly conversational, phrases. I think I've got the alphabet down too - it's the latin alphabet, but has lots of double letters and accents that change things up, for a total of 4-something different sounds. I've also mastered my confused-but-willing-to-try face.
There are a few main things that I've noticed about the city and the people.
1) While Budapest is definitely a city in the sense that it has a somewhat rushed, busy feel about it, especially on the public transport, people don't walk on the escalators. I find this fascinating, having spent most of my city time in New York and Boston, where there is nearly always a strict "stand to the right, pass to the left" sort of policy so that the most rushed of us can walk up escalators.
2) Trams are one of the best public transporatation systems I have ever heard of. Busses take forever, subways tend to not be quite as extensive, but trams can go everywhere cars can, just faster.
3) The architecture here is absolutely beautiful. It's a very interesting feel - the buildings themselves are among the most beautiful I have ever seen. It's all very Baroque and elegant. However, these buildings have been used and abused. Between two World Wars and a handful of revolutions, Budapest has seen its fair share of fighting. The area where I am living is the old Jewish Quarter, which was the Ghetto during WWII. One building across from me has a series of dimples along its side, which I can only assume are bullet holes. I don't think that there is anything else that they could be. Many other buildings are, while not run-down on their interior, somewhat shabby on the outside from weather wear and turmoil. It's very interesting walking in to what looks like an absolute pit to find a really lovely cafe, which is wear I am writing from now. What's also nice is that there are very few buildings higher than 4 or 5 stories, which makes the city feel much more accessible and human-sized than it might otherwise, I think.
Budapest is divided into two halves, Buda and Pest, by the Danube. I'm living in the heart of the Pest side, and I haven't actually seen the Buda side yet, but I hear it is quite different. For one, it is very, very hilly, whereas Pest is entirely flat. Secondly, there is a large castle directly up the first hill from the Danube, which I imagine sort of splits things up a bit. Tomorrow and Saturday we are being taken on our first excursion to three cities outside of Budapest - Szentendre, Visegrad and one other that I can't remember. We are also, if everything works out, supposed to take our return trip along the Danube, which should be beautiful.
We were taken to visit Parliament yesterday - it was STUNNING (it looks like some combination between an old Baroque church and a castle) and also one of the most touristy things I think I have ever done. I actually took pictures which as many of you know is a huge step for me. Usually I forget I have a camera, or just get too shy to take pictures. However, I managed. Expect some highlights soon.
There are a few main things that I've noticed about the city and the people.
1) While Budapest is definitely a city in the sense that it has a somewhat rushed, busy feel about it, especially on the public transport, people don't walk on the escalators. I find this fascinating, having spent most of my city time in New York and Boston, where there is nearly always a strict "stand to the right, pass to the left" sort of policy so that the most rushed of us can walk up escalators.
2) Trams are one of the best public transporatation systems I have ever heard of. Busses take forever, subways tend to not be quite as extensive, but trams can go everywhere cars can, just faster.
3) The architecture here is absolutely beautiful. It's a very interesting feel - the buildings themselves are among the most beautiful I have ever seen. It's all very Baroque and elegant. However, these buildings have been used and abused. Between two World Wars and a handful of revolutions, Budapest has seen its fair share of fighting. The area where I am living is the old Jewish Quarter, which was the Ghetto during WWII. One building across from me has a series of dimples along its side, which I can only assume are bullet holes. I don't think that there is anything else that they could be. Many other buildings are, while not run-down on their interior, somewhat shabby on the outside from weather wear and turmoil. It's very interesting walking in to what looks like an absolute pit to find a really lovely cafe, which is wear I am writing from now. What's also nice is that there are very few buildings higher than 4 or 5 stories, which makes the city feel much more accessible and human-sized than it might otherwise, I think.
Budapest is divided into two halves, Buda and Pest, by the Danube. I'm living in the heart of the Pest side, and I haven't actually seen the Buda side yet, but I hear it is quite different. For one, it is very, very hilly, whereas Pest is entirely flat. Secondly, there is a large castle directly up the first hill from the Danube, which I imagine sort of splits things up a bit. Tomorrow and Saturday we are being taken on our first excursion to three cities outside of Budapest - Szentendre, Visegrad and one other that I can't remember. We are also, if everything works out, supposed to take our return trip along the Danube, which should be beautiful.
We were taken to visit Parliament yesterday - it was STUNNING (it looks like some combination between an old Baroque church and a castle) and also one of the most touristy things I think I have ever done. I actually took pictures which as many of you know is a huge step for me. Usually I forget I have a camera, or just get too shy to take pictures. However, I managed. Expect some highlights soon.
Tuesday, September 4, 2007
landed
So, I arrived in Budapest Sunday around 4:45. I then proceeded to spend about an hour in the line for customs, as a 250-300 person tour group had arrived just before me. Got outside the airport, where I was greeted by someone from my program. I hopped in a taxi and arrived at my apartment.
Which is BEAUTIFUL.
You walk in the main door
and go through a short passage way
to an interior courtyard
It seems like most old apartment buildings in Budapest are built like this. It really creates a very nice effect, in my opinion. Less stuffy and impersonal as many apartment buildings in the States. My apartment is up a flight of stairs. You come into a hallway. To the left is the kitchen
and dining area,
which is quite spacious and very well supplied with pots and pans and everything else you could possibly need. To the right, the hallway continues and comes to the huge - probably 10 foot tall - doors
to our shockingly large living room.
The whole apartment has great high ceilings - probably 15 or 18 feet, I'd guess, though I'm not very good at guessing things like that. My bedroom
is on one side side of the living room. Those aren't as spacious as the rest of the apartment, but they are very, very comfortably sized. I was expecting a small, cramped apartment, so I was VERY pleasantly surprised.
The one drawback is that I have yet to get internet in the apartment. This is difficult as I was planning to communicate mainly through skype, which is an online phone service. However, I have (through only somewhat hacker-like techniques) managed to, I hope, set my computer up so that I will have internet. I'll be testing this in just a few minutes after I go home from the university. EDIT: It works!
I haven't done too much exploring of the city yet, as I've been largely stuck in orientation-type activities. However, the rest of the week is relatively free, so I'm looking forward to exploring!
Which is BEAUTIFUL.
You walk in the main door
and go through a short passage way
to an interior courtyard
It seems like most old apartment buildings in Budapest are built like this. It really creates a very nice effect, in my opinion. Less stuffy and impersonal as many apartment buildings in the States. My apartment is up a flight of stairs. You come into a hallway. To the left is the kitchen
and dining area,
which is quite spacious and very well supplied with pots and pans and everything else you could possibly need. To the right, the hallway continues and comes to the huge - probably 10 foot tall - doors
to our shockingly large living room.
The whole apartment has great high ceilings - probably 15 or 18 feet, I'd guess, though I'm not very good at guessing things like that. My bedroom
is on one side side of the living room. Those aren't as spacious as the rest of the apartment, but they are very, very comfortably sized. I was expecting a small, cramped apartment, so I was VERY pleasantly surprised.
The one drawback is that I have yet to get internet in the apartment. This is difficult as I was planning to communicate mainly through skype, which is an online phone service. However, I have (through only somewhat hacker-like techniques) managed to, I hope, set my computer up so that I will have internet. I'll be testing this in just a few minutes after I go home from the university. EDIT: It works!
I haven't done too much exploring of the city yet, as I've been largely stuck in orientation-type activities. However, the rest of the week is relatively free, so I'm looking forward to exploring!
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